Lotion Based Cold Process Soap, How to Save a Lotion

So, I recently decided to make a lotion for my family and a separate batch for myself. I also set up to make a soap at the same time. 

This was made on February 14, 2016.

I separated out my cool down phase for both batches in matching containers (fragrance, preservative, and ipm), labeled, and in the soap station put my fragrance blend in the same styled container, unlabeled.

I made my family's lotion without incident. I set off making my lotion batch, but when it came time to add my cool down ingredients, I dumped in an oz of the soap's fragrance instead! 

After some math calculations, it would have taken 224 oz of lotion to turn 1 oz fragrance into the required .5% fragrance for making a lotion. So instead, I turned it into soap!

Note, this is soap with my own pre-made lotion base, these are not lotion bars

This is how I saved a botched batch of lotion.

My lotion:
23 grams ewax
9 grams stearic 
23 grams shea
68 grams sweet almond oil
311 grams water
Minus the optiphen, ipm, and lotion fragrance

Having such a high water content, I needed to add enough ingredients to make a soap that would fill a mold I had and would not be way too high in water.

I was also unsure how ewax would react in a soap.

I did the math (being used to oz, it was a trial and error trying to find the right amount of grams).

I decided on a recipe to fill my ts mold.

New recipe:
Sweet almond- 100 grams, had 64 so add 36
Castor- 60 grams
Coconut- 170 grams 
Lard- 530 grams
Shea- 52 grams, had 22 so add 30
Stearic- 9 grams already in the lotion base
Ewax- 23 grams already in the lotion base 

That equates in percentage
Sweet almond 10.59%
Castor 6.36%
Coconut 18.01%
Lard 56.14%
Shea 5.51%
Stearic .95%
Ewax 2.44%

I used a 3% superfat, 2 oz fragrance  (already had 1 oz, so added an additional oz), and full water plus a little more.

Lye, 131 grams needed
Water, needs 350 grams for full water.
*I had 311 grams already in the lotion portion.
*Doing a 1:1 lye ratio or 50% lye concentration, that shows I have to mix 131 grams water to 131 grams lye to dissolve.
*Using 131 grams water to dissolve the lye, adding the 311 grams water in the lotion base, this soap has a total of 432 grams water and will require a very long cure.

Sodium citrate 2% and sugar 1 TBS ppo added in water pre lye.

Fragrance blend used
Mysore Sandalwood Oregon Trail Soaper's Supplies
Rosewood Wholesale Supplies Plus
Vanilla Rosewood Brambleberry

Before beginning. You can see the white lotion base on the spatula.

All melted. See the water base lotion in there? It's the white spots floating about.

Knowing stearic can sieze cp soap, and not knowing what ewax brings to the table, I began by hand wisking the lye water into oils. It immediately turned to this.

When I added the fragrance oils, it immediately curdled. I am fairly sure it wasn't ricing but curdled. If you look at the pot, you can kind of see what I am talking about.

Because of the curdle, I decided to hit the batter briefly with a stick blender.

I split off a little of the base, colored the main batch in sea green by Nurture Soap Supplies. The pot super heated. I am unsure what happened. I soap by feel of the pot. I've never had a problem before. I took a digital temperature and it was at 160 deg F. Panicked, I enlisted someone to get a fresh trash bag into the trash can in case it volcanoed in the pot. It didn't, thankfully, and so I poured the sea green into the mold.

I dropped in the split base color, and being a curdled consistency it literally plopped in and splashed. I tried to hanger swirl it, but the soap texture just didn't allow for movement.

Here it is in the mold.

It cooled dramatically fast, so I decided to cpop it.

Here are some not so artistic pics of the cut bars. They aren't the prettiest bars, kind of looks like clouds in the sky, but one thing they are: my lotion based soap!

On a side note, it was zap free in the morning, so less than 12 hours later, I decided to cut with the worry the ewax (a wildcard) plus stearic may make for split bars had I cut too late. I realize the excessive water would help prevent this, but my higher stearic bars that use high tallow have split in the past when cutting over 12 hours after saponification.

Being so water logged, the lather 12 hours later was descent, non drying, and actually much better than I expected. I have measured the weights of 11 bars, not the 12th bar I washed with, and will document water loss. The bar I washed with will be continually used each week to document the lather.

Here is the lather about 12 hours after making it.

I have to send a huge thanks to snappyllama and DeeAnna from smf for helping me make this possible!